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Damir Doma
01.05.12 | No Comments
Category: Uncategorized

Damir Doma's collections often have a priestly air. He's been accused of having a one-track mind: sect, not sex. There's some justice to these claims. But Doma used this, his tenth menswear collection, to push forward. "I wanted to do something very light, very confident," he said. "It's about finding a new perspective for my work, getting away from my comfort zone."

Suddenly, there was color where there used to be only black and gray. (A sweater blocked in primary shades was positively a shock.) Doma said he'd envisioned his outfits, with their giant pockets and newspaper straps, as providing in single looks everything a guy would need for a day at the beach. The beach? When pressed, the designer admitted he's not much for the place himself.


More traditional elements of menswear infiltrated his work than ever before. Perfecto jackets made an appearance; so did a three-button suit. He experimented with denim for the first time with his baggy, carrot-shaped trousers.

Acolytes of his former darkness will find plenty to sate their needs. Long, pleated bermudas fit the bill, as well as leather-sleeved knits and paneled pants. As with any new venture, there were risks that didn't pay off, in addition to rewards. The balance inclined a bit to the former. But as his well-attended show attests, Doma has solidified his place on the Paris schedule, not to mention his place on the Paris street: His first boutique, on Faubourg Saint-Honor, opened two weeks ago.
—Matthew Schneier

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Miharayasuhiro
01.05.12 | No Comments
Category: Uncategorized

Inspired by David Lynch's Wild at Heart, Mihara Yasuhiro got his motor running and headed out on the highway. The snakeskin jacket that outlaw Sailor Ripley (Nicolas Cage) wears in the film provided the key texture in the form of reptile "scales" bonded and melted onto T-shirts, shorts, and chinos. It's part of Mihara's genius as a designer that he is so able to transform the most banal piece of clothing with this sort of technical flourish. So one of the strongest outfits in the show was one of the simplest: "snakeskin" chinos paired with a reptile-textured, batik-ed mandala shirt and blue python loafers.


Sailor's greaser style dictated the look of the models. Mihara took on other contemporary outlaw archetypes—the cowboy, the biker, the juvenile delinquent—for more inspiration in the actual clothes. That red jacket, for instance, could have belonged to James Dean, the original rebel without a cause. And the insignia of a biker club was a running motif across shirts and tees. But where he might once have given the clothes a little wear and tear to heighten the story he was telling, here Mihara allowed a new polish into items like a linen trench with black leather biker detailing, or a baseball-biker jacket hybrid.


Mihara's shows always have the added benefit of introducing his audience in Paris to some inspiring new example of contemporary Japanese culture. Today's collaborator was the artist Jun Inoue, who was responsible for the ab-ex combination of graffiti and shodo, traditional Japanese calligraphy, that decorated outfits at the end of the show. He also furiously painted a backdrop that seeped and drizzled as the show went on. Jun customized the finale as well, so when the models made it onto the catwalk, they too were artfully splattered. When he took his bow with Mihara, he was drenched in sweat and paint, a salutary reminder that, as these heat-wave-riven men's fashion weeks draw to a close, genius is indeed one percent inspiration, 99 percent perspiration.
—Tim Blanks

Dior Homme
01.05.12 | No Comments
Category: Uncategorized

Kris Van Assche is entering his blue period at Dior. His Spring show was an extended meditation on navy. Following a Fall season of olive—that is to say, army—green, you began to sense a theme.


But if there was a military discipline to the metal buttons that closed blazers, and a naval nod in the striped sweaters whose stripes turned out to be, on closer inspection, ropes, the full collection went beyond mere thematic tricks. Van Assche, in his methodical way, set out to present what he called "a complete wardrobe."


That's a heady aspiration, though what was shown had more depth than breadth. Van Assche is skilled at turning an idea over and over, tweaking it: showing a blazer, then shearing its sleeves, then removing its back. Finally, all becomes completely clear, as if by the sheer force of his attention. But the concept became flesh—well, cloth—when Van Assche rendered a few jackets and coats in nylon mesh, the better to show the construction inside (a gesture that recalled his Spring 2012 collection, which he modeled on toiles as an homage to his atelier).


Under the laser of his focus, everything unnecessary falls away. Even the parts in the models' hair seemed spit shined into submission. If rigor comes at some cost to charm, it's a bargain you imagine the designer would approve. These are clothes to be worn—or maybe enlisted in.
—Matthew Schneier

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Acne
01.05.12 | No Comments
Category: Uncategorized

Denim is the seed from which Acne grew, but in recent years, Jonny Johansson has steered the label—at least as far as the runway is concerned—in a different direction. "We never wanted to be just a denim brand," Johansson said. "We were afraid to show too much denim, to be put in a box." That the opening look for Spring was full-on jean signaled something of a homecoming. Johansson explained that workwear had been a particular font of inspiration, and where work is concerned, denim often follows close behind. But while there were echoes of that in the raw-edged denim vests and classic jean jackets, and perhaps also in the looser, boxier silhouette, flourishes like the scuffed gold and silver lace-up shoes added a note of tarnished glamour. So did an oversized striped T-shirt and matching pants in striped satin.

The two strands intertwined in what amounted to a four-piece suit: matching denim jacket, vest, tunic, and pant, Acne's entry in the season-wide arms race of top-to-toe looks. (Simplified versions of sleeveless tunic tops and matching pants in paneled leather were literally all about the arm.)


The last few seasons have represented a growing confidence for the label, which now finds itself with credit to spend. A bit curious it did so on a collection this compressed. Maybe what was offered today wasn't so much a return to roots as a way station on the continuing journey forward.
—Matthew Schneier

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